I've just cut out a sleeveless slip/underskirt for a 15" doll and am having trouble overlocking round the tight curves of the neck and sleeve openings. Has anyone any suggestions, please? The overlocker sews perfectly on straight seams, but the curves in doll-sized garments has it (and me!) baffled. I've tried 3- and 4-thread settings, am using lightweight polycotton and good quality thread. The machine itself is working well, so it's just operator error! I really would like to overlock the edges and machine stitch the fold - or is there a better way of neatening tiny edges?
Thanks in advance!

Hi Barb!

I manage to overlock tiny doll clothes, those tight corners etc - I have it on three threads, then I go slowly and watch the foot, moving the fabric as I go - it's just a matter of patience too honey - don't drive too fast! lol

PS MAKE SURE THE CUTTER'S OFF HONEY- WE HAVE ALSO TAKEN SOME OF THE GUILDS OFF TO MAKE OUR MACHINE EASIER TO WORK WITH AND TO BE ABLE TO SEE CLEARLY THE FABIRC AS IT'S OVERLOCKING!

Hope this helps!

Abientot!
Minnie in France.
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WHY NOT DO IT BY HAND ...THAT'S WHAT I DO ... I USE A VERY CLOSE "BLANKET STITCH" ... IT ALWAYS WORKS WELL FOR ME AND NEVER FRAYS .I HOPE THIS IS OF SOME HELP TO YOU .HUGS ..VAL

Thanks for your ideas, ladies!

Valsdawn - I suppose the best way IS by hand, but I plan on making lots of these undergarment sets for my new website, so I think I need to use a machine, really. The doll is a Sasha, so you can see what I mean by a tiny armhole! Perhaps I could make a special 'couture' range with the hand stitching, though. Now there's an idea...

Minnie - thanks for the tips. I've come to the conclusion that the best thing to do for Sasha-sized doll clothes is to make a facing instead of overlocking. That way the raw edges will be enclosed and the garments will be good enough to put on the website. BY THE WAY - I am still looking for the Aran coat pattern we discussed and will let you know when I find it!